Tuesday, 21 May 2013

Portuguese Bread, Coriander, Garlic & Egg Soup



I first came across a version of this soup in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in the backstreets of the Bairro Alto district of Lisbon, famous for the Portuguese 'lament' style singing - fado. I don't think I ever knew the name of the restaurant, and on regular occasions took ages to find it in the maze of backstreets when trying to show it off to visitors from Blighty.

The soup in this restaurant was watery in texture but packed full of the flavours of coriander, garlic, and olive oil.  When I eventually found a version of the recipe for this soup in print in 'The Taste of Portugal' by Edite Viera it included stale bread.  Using stale bread to make a porridgy style soup is a Portuguese speciality.  Portugal is historically a poor subsistence economy, and 'açorda' (pronounced ass-orda) was a simple peasant dish of rehydrated stale bread beefed up with whatever strong flavours could be found.  It apparently continued to be popular until relatively recently as a stand-by meal for feeding infants!  The 'Sopa Alentejana' I found in the backstreets of Lisbon hailed from the Alentejo, one of the poorest and most barren regions of Portugal despite bordering the Algarve to the south.

Despite it's more common association, in this country at least, with Thai cooking, fresh coriander is a coomon ingredient in Southern Portuguese cooking too.  But this soup can be made with paprika instead if fresh coriander can not be found.  Do not use coriander seed!!!

Serves 1
2 large crusts of stale bread, white or wholemeal
1 clove of garlic
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 large pinches of sea salt
1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander or 1/4tsp smoked paprika
1 free range egg
1 mug boiling water

Beat the egg in the soup bowl of your choice, then add the bread broken as small as you can together with the other dry ingredients.  Pour over a mug of boiling water and stir to cook the beaten egg.  Leave to stand for a couple of minutes for the bread to soften then tuck in.

If undercooked egg is something that concerns you, you could always microwave the soup for 1 minute, or heat it in a small saucepan, or poach the egg in the mugful of water and pour this gently over the other ingredients and leave to stand.

Monday, 13 May 2013

Canja - Portuguese Chicken Broth

Today I'm feeling under the weather.  I have looked in the fridge and the only thing that looks inviting is the chicken stock I made last night.

Canja is a stupidly simple chicken soup for the poorly, or uninspired.

Take 750ml of homemade chicken stock.  Bring to the boil, add a large sprig of fresh mint (or 1tsp dried mint) and either a handful of rice or tiny pasta shapes and simmer for 10 minutes.  If you are feeling up to it, you could always fry a little chopped onion, carrot, and celery first and then simmer the soup for 10 minutes first before adding the pasta.

Eat carefully (it stays surprisingly hot!) and feel better.


Quick & Easy Homemade Chicken Stock

Every single chicken roast carcass we have ends up as chicken stock.  It doesn't make a huge amount - about 750ml - which we mostly use it in risottos which we have once a week, or in homemade soup.  We do keep a supply of low salt organic chicken stock cubes in the cupboard, but homemade chicken stock has a far superior flavour.

Making chicken stock in itself is very simple.  You can add additional flavourings like garlic, carrot, onion, celery etc like Jamie's Easy Chicken Stock recipe but I never usually bother to add anything more than a bayleaf.

There seems to be some debate about timing.  Jamie's recipe I note takes 3-4 hours.  My mum, whose grandmother had a stockpot on the go everyday, said that you got all the flavour out of the carcass after 30 minutes.  I go for a bit of a halfway house of 1.5 hours usually because I'm busy doing something else.

Take the remains of your roast chicken; bones, skin, parsons nose, tendons, vegetable leftovers and plonk all of it into a medium saucepan with a lid.  Squash it all down with a wooden spoon.  You may need to break the ribcage up with your hands first.

Cover with 2 pints of boiling water and simmer with the lid on for half an hour.  You want the carcass covered with about 3cm of water.  After half an hour squash everything around again with a wooden spoon.  Simmer again for half an hour with the lid on then take the lid off.  Taste the stock.  It will probably be a bit watery so leave the lid off and leave to simmer and reduce for about half an hour.

Check the pot regularly (a timer every set 10 minutes is useful) to ensure it doesn't boil dry.  Believe me the smell of burnt chicken stock is incredibly pungent and the resulting mess is hard to get off the pan!  After about 30 minutes you should end up with 750ml of light chicken stock.  Your stock will keep 4 days in the fridge in a sealed container or 2-3 months in the freezer.

This time I used the stock I made into Canja - a simple Portuguese Chicken Broth.

Sunday, 12 May 2013

Spinach or Swiss Chard Pasta Sauce

Sprout, and now Big Boy, love Green Cheesy Rice.

Green Cheesy Rice is a dish/name that came about when Sprout was about 2 or 3 years old.  I was at a loss what to give her for lunch, and on a whim whizzed up a big handful of Swiss Chard from the garden (wilted slightly in a pan with some olive oil like cooking spinach, a small clove of garlic, and a handful of Mature Cheddar.  When she asked what it was, I was fearful of mentioning the name of a vegetable (based on previous experience), so I simply told her it was green, cheesy, and had rice in it. And the name stuck.

The resulting green puree looks singularly unappetising.  Almost exactly like something you'd fish out from a pond on the end of a stick.  But it is truly delicious stirred through cooked rice or pasta.

Sprout is now 7 1/2 and asked for this the other week, eagerly backed up by her 'baby' brother (nearly 5) .  I guess it is comfort food for them, as the sauce gloops the rice together and makes it a toddler spoon friendly meal - no tricky cutting or even stabbing for tired school children.

Princess, however, pulled a face when I told her the plan for Green Cheesy Rice.  I don't know whether it is her blindness or her cerebral palsy which makes her dislike the texture of rice (funny though - she wolfs it down swamped in curry sauce) but seemed delighted when I offered to put the sauce over pasta for her.

I usually make this with Swiss Chard, but it is too early in the year for my seedlings to amount a meal yet so I used a big handful of baby spinach leaves from Riverford.

Spinach or Swiss Chard Pasta Sauce
1 big handful of washed Swiss Chard or Spinach
1 small garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1 handful grated mature cheddar
1/2 tbsp olive oil

Soften the chard/spinach in a pan with the olive oil for a few minutes over a gentle heat.  Put the wilted veg into a blender cup with the garlic and cheese and any juices from the pan.  Puree until smooth.  Stir into hot pasta or rice.

Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Pan Bagnat or Mediterranean Salad & Focaccia or Baguette Sandwich

Making focaccia the other day meant I had some suitable bread to try out Pan Bagnat, a provencal salad filled sandwich.

The recipe I have from Claudia Roden's Mediterranean Cooking uses baguette.  But Provence is close to the Italian border (which has moved around a bit over the centuries), and I would not be surprised if it has been made with what I was brought up in Italy calling Pane Genovese (Genoese bread), and what everybody else now calls focaccia.

Serves 1 hungry person

1 piece of focaccia, roughly 20cm x 15cm or a 20cm length of baguette
1 small garlic clove, crush or thinly sliced
1 tomato, thinly sliced
2-3 slices hard boiled egg (optional)
4-5 black olives (optional)
2-3 anchovy fillets (optional)
A few cucumber slices
2-3 slices of sweet bell pepper, any colour
Sprinkling of chopped onion or spring onion
A few drops of vinegar
A drizzle of olive oil
A few sprigs of basil, parsley or thyme (optional)
Pepper and salt

As you will see from how many things I have marked as optional, this sandwich filling is quite literally a very moveable feast.  I don't like egg, and anyway would never have a boiled one floating around waiting for a use.  I do love anchovies and olives, but only had anchovies on the day I made it.  To me, essentially, the key ingredients are the garlic, tomato, bell pepper, onion, oil & vinegar, seasoning and herbs (if you have some) for a little taste of the Mediterranean.

Take your baguette or focaccia and carefully slice it down the side to open it up. If using baguette squash both halves of the bread flat with the palm of your hand to make the surface as flat and as wide as you can.

Drizzle the oil on all the open sides of the bread, lay the tomato on first (you want these juices in particular to soak into the bread).  Lightly season with salt & pepper and then continue layering in your filling, lightly seasoning as you go as the salt will draw out the lovely flavoured juices of your salad ingredients.

When filled, press the 'lid' of your sandwich down firmly and wrap tightly in cling film.  Ideally this sandwich is best made the night before or first thing in the morning to be eaten at lunchtime.  Then the juices will have mingled together soaking into the bread.  But even a 10 minute wait is sufficient.  Even avid meat eaters may be surprised how filling this sandwich is!




Tuesday, 7 May 2013

Homemade Harissa or Spicy Moroccan Chilli Paste

Harissa is a fiery hot North African chilli and roasted pepper paste.  As we aspire to make North African Merguez (blog to follow on our attempts at sausage making) of which harissa is a key ingredient, we decided to make it.

This is probably about our third time at making it.  It is just so simple.  We have toned the chilli down from the original recipe I downloaded from the internet, but it still has a great kick to it.  As I say we make it to use in making merguez, but any leftovers get frozen in ice cube trays and can be used to enliven soups, stews, tomato sauce for use with white fish or lamb meatballs, as a marinade for meat or fish, or just stirred through yoghurt or mayonnaise to make a tasting dipping sauce.

3 small red peppers (my local sells bags of 3 romano pointed peppers for 99p so that is what I used)
1 tbsp roasted cumin seeds
2 large garlic cloves
Large pinch of salt
A splash of red wine vinegar (optional)
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp hot chilli flakes
4 tbsp olive oil

Roast the peppers carefully under the grill, turning them once.  You want them charred as shown.  Place them into a plastic bag to steam (this helps loosen the skin) whilst you put all the other ingredients into a mini food processor.

When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel and de-seed them.  Don't worry if the odd bit of skin or seeds escapes you.  Place the flesh into the food processor together with the other ingredients and whizz until as smooth as possible.

Spoon into a sterilised jar and cover the paste with a film of olive oil.  Keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.  If you have any left close to a month later you can always freeze it in handy portions in an ice cube tray.



Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Cerebral Palsy & Me

The first time cerebral palsy was spoken of, the Special Needs Health Visitor asked if any of my six month old daughter's therapists or consultants had mentioned 'cerebral palsy'.  When I said no, she said 'oh just forget I said it'.

To put things into context, Isabel was 5 days short of her due date by emergency c-section only because labour wasn't progressing after 24 hours after my waters breaking.  Her full birth story is here, but in a nutshell she took ill 16 hours after birth and was diagnosed with Group B Strep Meningitis.  She did not respond as well to antibiotics as the consultants would have hoped and began to fit and her organs shut down, so much so that on her 3rd day of life the consultants suggested we christen her.  And though she did pull through, an MRI scan of her brain just before she was discharged from hospital at 3 weeks old showed she had suffered what the consultant called 'an insult to the brain' and was likely to suffer visual problems and problems with movement.

At six months old, already with a weekly schedule of physiotherapy, visual stimulation, baby massage, and neonatal consultants, cerebral palsy was a completely new term for us.  With the Special Needs Health Visitor completely clamming up about it, my partner and I were left to our own conclusions.  Our immediate thoughts were that she would be a vegetable - even with the rose tinted glasses of first time parents we knew our six month old baby daughter had progressed little developmentally since birth - but as we desperately searched our brains for the term we both remembered children we had come across in various walks of life with cerebral palsy, all of which were fully mobile with just a subtly twisted limb.  And all were quite a character.

Top of the search results for cerebral palsy on the internet that evening was something called SCOPE.  This being the days of slow dial-up connection (it was 2003), bits of the Scope website appeared one by one on my screen, the first of which was the heading 'At Work', then 'At School'.  It was such a revelation and relief to me, still harbouring the gut impression at my lowest moments left alone with my needy daughter that brain damage equals permanent vegative state, that people with cerebral palsy did go to school and did work.  When the rest of the Scope homepage loaded it was a mine of useful and reassuring information about cerebral palsy.  I finally had a succinct definition - 'damage to the infantile brain that affects movement'.  Nothing too scary in that.  And I had the reassurance that intellectual ability is as equally spread across people with cerebral palsy as it is in the 'normal' population.  That was settled then. Isabel might have a slightly twisted arm or leg, maybe even need a wheelchair.  She might need glasses for her visual problems, but she would be bright and  and 'normal. Easy.

Over the next six months, although no-one spoke of cerebral palsy, it began increasingly clear that that was what Isabel had.  She had suffered brain damage at birth and couldn't sit or do much physically at all.  On her 1st birthday she was officially diagnosed to have both cerebral palsy and registered blind.  Neither were a shock to us, and it still didn't tell us how able or disabled she would be (other than the lack of useful sight), but it was of use to have a name for her problems rather than the vague 'developmental delay' that was written on her notes up until then.  Whilst we found the labels useful I was surprised how little people, even well-educated ones, knew about cerebral palsy. Although, given our own ignorance only six months earlier I suppose it is no surprise.

When I first told mums in my local Mother & Toddler group that Isabel had cerebral palsy one inched away from me asking if it was catching and another asked how she'd caught it, thinking that cerebral palsy was an infection.  And often explaining that it was caused by brain damage didn't help, as like I had initially done, many assumed that brain damage meant Isabel was a vegetable at worst or retarded at best.  I even once tried to compare cerebral palsy to someone having a stroke, as I realised that people don't seem to assume retardation (for want of a better phrase) with stroke victims just because of they have difficulty speaking or walking.  But the woman I was talking to said 'Oh my God, she's had cerebral palsy and a stroke!'  So I ended up just sticking to saying she had cerebral palsy and letting people draw their own conclusions in the hope that one day she'd prove them wrong.

Isabel was 10 this year.  She suffers from Spastic Quadriplegia.  Spastic cerebral palsy is the most common of the three main types of cerebral palsy.  Spastic means muscles are tight or stiff and Quadriplegia means the spasticity affects all four limbs, so she difficulty moving both her arms and legs.  Isabel's cerebral palsy is severe, so that, together with her blindness, she cannot sit unsupported.  She cannot crawl, stand unsupported or walk.  She has to be strapped into a special wheelchair to stop her falling out.  Physically, she has the movement of a six month old baby.

Unlike many at her Special School for children with physical disabilities, Isabel can talk as the muscles involved speech are not affected (although she has just begun to stutter as she has so much to say which makes people who don't know her often walk away before she has managed to say a word).  She has a remarkable memory, often remembering songs, poems, and stories after one reading.  She does have Moderate to Severe Learning disabilities which are not caused by the cerebral palsy but the extent of her brain damage at birth.  The damage to another part of her brain too, not cerebral palsy, is the reason for her blindness as the part of her brain that controls vision is affected.  She has Cortical Blindness which is damage to the cortex in the brain, and does see shapes and colours but not reliably.

Isabel is not typical of a child suffering from cerebral palsy because there is no such thing as typical cerebral palsy.  No two people are affected by cerebral palsy in the same way.  With some it may be barely noticeable (I believe one of the Great Britain's Paralympian footballers was only diagnosed in his late teens when he sought help to improve his fitness), yet others like Isabel may need help with every aspect of their life.

When Isabel was born I was frustrated that our particular  consultant seemed reluctant to give us any indication of what a child with brain damage might be like.  Other parents consultants in different hospitals seemed quick to pronounce what their babies would amount to.  But now I am so pleased that he didn't.  It is impossible to know how someone young or old will recover from brain damage.  Our consultant said the brain is an amazing thing and it is impossible to say how it will develop.  Isabel is more disabled than we let ourselves imagine, and the waiting game to see how she would develop was awful.  But letting her disability unfold slowly over the years has given us time to adjust, and encourage her.  On paper she doesn't amount to much. But she is so much more than the sum of her conditions, and regularly astounds teachers, therapists, and people who meet her for the first time.  Isabel may have cerebral palsy and associated difficulties but she is no fool - she just loves playing the clown.  Isabel is just Isabel.  Nothing more and most certainly nothing less.